The Trip Before the Trip

Well, after a very cramped, loud, and long flight from LAX to Dusseldorf, then a short flight to Berlin Tegel I have made it to my home for the next year!  This trip came after a much needed annual venture into the mountainous back country of Yosemite National Park with several family members. 

The Yosemite excursion consisted of a 5 day trek from Tuolomne Meadows along the Merced River ending in Yosemite Valley, a scenic 30 mile hike with an addition 15 miles including a day trip to Washburn Lake and a glorious sunrise climb up Half Dome. 

I have been backpacking in the Eastern Sierra Nevadas since I was 9 years old beginning with an almost identical trip of the same distance.  This year I was walking along the same trails as I had 13 years prior along with 11 family members and friends ranging from ages 10 to 65.  At first many obstacles needed be hurdled just to get out boots on the trailhead, then we faced a 10 mile climb atop heavy snow that obscured 90% of the trail... >

My dad and I quickly pulled ahead of the pack as we weren't weighed down by the 2 young hikers, Olivia 10 and Will 11.  We navigated a rough path relying heavily upon our GPS to show us where the trail led underneath the snow.  The hike was grueling, arguably the toughest I have yet to complete, not due to a significant rise in elevation but simply because we had to forge our own path with equipment ill-suited for the amount of snow. 

The next 4 days went much smoother as we descended into the trickling glacial valleys ,one flowing into the next, of the John Muir Trail.  The mosquitoes were few and far between and the fish were plentiful.  Other than a few blisters wrought from the first day the trip went beautifully. 

Half Dome-distance from edge to valley floor approx. 5000+ ft.

The climax of the trip hands down had to be our early morning climb up Half Dome.  Those of us willing to make the intense climb before the rising sun bathed the monolithic granite giant and the valley below awoke at 3 am.   The group consisted of myself, my cousin-in-law Geoff, his daughter Olivia, his brothers Nick and Jim, and my uncle Bill.  The hike to the base of Half Dome from Little Yosemite Valley is roughly 3 miles along relentless uphill switchbacks, nothing to take lightly. 

The real challenge is not met until one emerges above the tree line and is overshadowed by a near vertical granite slope with 3 foot tall steps that vanish half-way to the top.  But the fun doesn't stop there! One must then descend into the 'saddle', a small dip that then meets the granite dome.  Here lies the way up the shear rock, two steel cables and a deteriorating wood step approximately every  3 meters.  Mind you there are no harnesses or carabiners to secure you to these cables....if you fall, it will be the most scenic and fatal fall you experience before your soul transcends the clouds (or whatever you believe happens when your face meets granite at terminal velocity). 

Also remember that we have a 10 year old girl with us... and it is still dark...

View of the 'saddle' from the cables

Before we have time to process the epic task that lay before us along spindly cables we must hustle as the sun is fast approaching and we wish to experience sunrise on top of the dome.  I attack the cables at a near sprint.  I have done this several times before and knew that if I psyched myself up enough it would be relatively easy.  At this point fear is not my biggest concern but a lack of oxygen (one can not run too far or fast at such an elevation without risking a blackout resulting in a quick trip to the valley floor), as well as a lack of visibility as the dome was obscured by clouds and I had begun to pierce the ominous grey shroud.

I make my way up the cables sprinting, always keeping one hand on a cable while the other reaches farther up.  I am wearing fingerless gloves and my fingertips soon begin to bleed having been cut by the steel cables. 

I soon emerge from the clouds and enter what feels like an ethereal world.  granite mountaintops sit like islands on a sea of clouds.  What little breath I had remaining from my ascent is stolen from me by the beauty I am beholding. 

The sun soon rises and we are have scrambled up just in time to enjoy its splendor.  We glow with awe and snap dozens of pictures, then discuss how we are to descend from such heights....  I suggest going down backwards to those who fear heights and an awkward descent.  I opt for a sideways repelling motion in which I hold onto one cable and hop down the slope.

We all make it back safely and quickly pack our backpacks in order to race down into the valley where cold beer and warm showers awaits our triumphant crew.  The trip as a whole was unforgettable and a refreshing and calming adventure for my soul so eager for the coming change that Berlin and the coming year is to offer. 

I finally have a solid internet connection here after my host father did some much appreciated troubleshooting.  I assure you that more about Germany and my experience with the children is soon to come!  Bis Bald! (see you soon)