Österreich

For a man my age I have been lucky enough to experience many fulfilling things.  As of late I have done many things that will stay with me and bring a smile to my face until the day I die.  The awe of a high sierra sunrise, the security of lifelong friendships, the warmth of a kiss from the one I love.  This morning I created another wonderful memory.

Freisinger Hof, if you need a place to stay in Munich, stay here

Yesterday the Greiff Family and myself drove from Munich to Salzberg, Austria.  The ride alone was beautiful, scenes worthy of postcards.  Small villages with onion-domed churches were sprinkled throughout the hidden valleys along the autobahn, each one enticing me to abandon the highway and explore what they each had to offer.

The house in Plainfeld

We had left the Freisinger Hof hotel in Munich, an establishment owned by family friends of my au pair family, for their brother's home in Plainfeld, Austria.  The father, Charlie, is head chef of the Freisinger Hof restaurant and bestowed upon us the past two days a bounty of Traditional Bavarian dishes and cherished regional liquors.  We would be staying here in Plainfeld for the next two weeks in order to enjoy the classical music festival in nearby Salzburg.

The Greiff's and I left for Salzburg early and would be waiting for the Wallisch family as their two children, Katharina and Johannes would not be released from school until 11 am.

We arrived in Salzburg and crossed the Salzach river into the historic district, a cluster of baroque structures overshadowed by the impressive fortress above.  Our cars dove underground into a parking garage created in the hollow of a large monolithic geology sheltering the well-preserved city center from the modern periphery.  We ate lunch high above the city with impressive cuisine and an even more impressive command over the Salzach below. 

View from the restaurant

The main street packed with tourists

After lunch we ventured into the historic district and joined the masses of tourists filing through the main street.  Each store holds expensive wares related to either Mozart (he was born and lived here), traditional Trachten clothes (fancy regional dress like the male Lederhosen and the female Dirndl, we saw articles of clothing priced at over 3000 euro), or cheesy tourist goods. 

We eventually made our way back to our cars and drove approximately 10km out of the city to a small village nestled in a small valley hidden from the main highway.  The Wallisch house overlooks the village of Plainfeld and throughout the evening was flooded with more and more guests.  With each new guest came another open bottle of champagne until dinner.  After dinner I walked into a room where the four children were playing to be greeted by Johannes and an unexpected question.  "willst du Ecstasy oder coke?" [do you want ecstasy or coke?].
.....WHAT!?!
The kids were pretending to be like Amy Winehouse.............yup.....they were smoking "joints"[wood board game pieces] and 'passing out'.
.....I....love....children.....

This morning, I woke and promptly prepared for a jog that I had vowed to do the night before.  The run started rather shaky as I have not had time to exercise with such transition over the past few weeks.  But once I made my way out of the valley I fell into a rhythm. 

Now, I must say that the band Explosions in The Sky is utterly AMAZING!  But if you are jogging through a nice area they are doubly amazing.  And if you have a chance EVER to walk or run through the Austrian countryside with explosions in your ears, TAKE THAT OPPORTUNITY.

Plainfeld

My feet carried me along winding roads through the smallest of villages past milk cows chewing cud and upon surprised deer that like ghosts vanished once recognized.  My breath hung heavy in the morning mist and rain poured intermittently upon my shoulders.  The hills rolled endlessly.  At one intersection of tractor routes I dipped into the Austrian forest for some meditation and urination.  Amongst the serenity of the trees I came to a point of realization as to my surroundings and the shear grace I was experiencing.  I will never forget those slender tree trunks or the summer rain mixing with my beading sweat.

I was lost within the Austrian countryside for over two hours, and loved every minute of it.

The boys and I in front of the theater

Tonight I am on babysitting duty while the adults view Le Nozze di Figaro.  But I was informed that I have a ticket for the Opera this monday, Die Frau Ohne Shatten [the woman without a shadow].   I am very excited. 

Fahrzeug, and Deutschsprachkurz

My boat in the front yard

After a much needed night of sleep I began the tall task of earning Felix's and Louis' respect, as well as winning over the hearts of Christian and Anja.  Getting approval from Anja and Christian proved to be rather easy as the last 2 au pairs they employed both failed and were sent home within 2 weeks.  I am likely to be the last au pair that this family employs as the boys are reaching an age of independence. Hopefully I will be not only the last, but one of the best. 

This is how Louis and I roll

I learned later from Anja that after putting on my game face and playing with the boys they ran to gave their mother my approval.  During a trip to the local town center where Anja showed me the grocery store we both walked out with the groceries to see Louis across the plaza with a large smile upon his face and an even larger box in his hands.  With his allowance money he had purchased a HUGE nerf gun.  This thing had an extendable stock, forward grip, and a drum magazine holding around 35 rounds. 

Once home I was instantly recruited for the coming nerf war.  I was issued two guns and a nerf vest that I would have outgrown 10 years ago.  To say I enjoyed the 'nerf-kämpf' (fight) would be an understatement...  I went full bore...  diving, rolling, yelling, and faking death.  "Ich bin TOT!" (i'm dead) I yelled as Louis stood over me victorious.  I earned major brownie points here.

Earlier that day Felix had led me to the town center on bike, a nice excursion that resulted in us browsing the local library.  I later learned that Felix read so much that he would burn through the book he checked out by nightfall...I could take a lesson or two from this kid. 

After lunch Anja asked if I was ready to try driving.  "........sure..." I said cautiously.  I had never driven in a foreign country before and this seemed to be a trial by fire.  The previous au pair was inept when it came to driving a stick shift and the boys had given him the nickname "the meister of disaster".  The boys strapped into the Kia, unsure as to my driving abilities.  I took off strong and I could here Louis in the backseat release a sigh of relief.  I quickly racked my brain for the driving rules Christian had given me the prior day.  I made it successfully to the town center where I bought supplies for dinner. 

I had been recruited to prepare my first meal for the family as Anja and Christian were both busy preparing for our impending trip to Munich and Salzburg.  When asked to make dinner I gladly acepted the offer and began to think of recipes.  French? maybe Italian... or Mexican!    "Hamburgers!!!" yelled the boys....o...k.  

Bike ride through the neighborhood with Felix

Once we returned home Louis jumped out of the car and exclaimed to Anja "Er kann fahren!" (he can drive).  I had passed yet another test!  Dinner went well, Burgers and fries with extra toppings for the parents.  Thumbs up from the entire family.  The boys were pleased and the parents more pleased with the fact that I could cook without supervision.  Although I must admit that Louis did act as my assistant chef in the kitchen.  "You are the first au pair we have had that did not ask where the microwave is!" said Anja.   Another point for David.

Jay-jay and Toffee always steal my bed

Before dinner however Anja drove Felix and I to my soon-to-be language school.  I was to take a placement exam then navigate my way back home with Felix using the bus and U-bahn (metro).  The test went well and the young lady grading it spoke with me in German, an act that I greatly appreciated because I have been approached in English as all locals quickly recognized my limited handle on the language.  Felix and I missed the bus by a hair so we dove into the underground. 

The porch

After cleaning the dinner table and kitchen the adults and I once again sat on the porch enjoying beer, wine, and cigarettes until late in the night.  The next day Christian and I would take the boys to Munich at 4 am, so we were to go to bed 'early'.  An early night in this town means midnight I guess...

My first day.

My new whip!

I have yet to spend a week here in Deutschland but already I feel at home, thanks in large part to the unrelenting hospitality and generosity of my host family.  After a long and exhausting flight through 9 time-zones I was greeted at Tegel international by Christian, my host father, his sister-in-law Nicole, and her son Milan.  My heavy bags were quickly wrestled from me and I was led to what would be my car for the next year.  A small red manual Kia, a toy in comparison to my pickup truck which I have endearingly named Betty now sitting in Santa Barbara. 

Milan had just returned from a year of study in Atlanta Georgia and spoke American English very well.  He was eager to speak with an American in Germany as I likewise was eager to question him as a German in America. 

The weather in Berlin upon my arrival was far from that of the so-cal pseudo-paradise of SB.  Grey skies and drizzle offered a preview of weather to come for the next year.  My liberation from the rain of Oregon in sunny Santa Barbara was rather short lived. 

We zipped along the highway through Berlin while I earnestly scanned the built environment, inspecting the structures and their aesthetics (a habit imbued in me through my studies in historical preservation at the UO).  We soon left the urban sprawl of Berlin for a skyline dominated less by buildings and more so by trees in the small borough of Kleinmachnow.  This suburb situated to the southwest of Belrin Mitte (middle) has a population of approximately 20k people and exhibits a very green and quaint setting.  The nearest urban center and transportation hub to my new home is Zeheldorf.  Here are located several streets lined with shops, specialty boutiques, markets, etc. all centered around a Straßenbahn (streetcar) station. 

As we drive into the town Christian points out interesting locations and buildings. “here is the old American Barracks”, “Here we have the annual Amerikanische-Deutsche Volksfest”, etc…. 

We soon enter a neighborhood of mixed houses, stark modern constructions alternating with warmer older house.  The street is not paved but rather laid with cobblestone making for a very bumpy ride. 

Home sweet home

We turn a corner and stop in front of the family’s home, a beautiful 3.5 story house that was not done proper justice in the pictures I was sent over email.  I struggle to pick my jaw up off the ground as we open the white gate and approach the entry.  The historic exterior is contrasted by a well executed interior renovation. 

My Amerikanisches Zimmer

 The walls are adorned with modern art as well as classical prints. I am not yet given a house tour as it is the wish of young Louis to personally guide me throughout every room.  I stop in the foyer in front of a grand staircase and Christian asks me if I can tell which room will be mine.  I only then through the corner of my eye notice the large American flag draped over a door. 

After unpacking and changing, the boys and Anja arrive.  They greet me warmly and Louis proceeds to tour me around the house which proves to be much larger than I had surmised from the exterior. 

Dinner that night is prepared by Christian and Nicole.  The whole dinner becomes much more classy than I imagine with candles, formal plate settings, and soft classical music.  We begin eating the delicious meal of lamb, potatoes, and sautéed vegetables.  I further my drowsiness with large glasses of red wine that are almost forced upon me. 

After dinner the adults and myself sit upon the porch with wine, beer, and cigarettes late into the evening.  I am very surprised that my mind has forced my weary body to remain awake this long.  I soon crash upon my bed violently and sleep deeply.  The next morning I awoke in a daze as I had believed the prior day to be a dream, as it was too good to be true. But to my delight it was all real.

The Trip Before the Trip

Well, after a very cramped, loud, and long flight from LAX to Dusseldorf, then a short flight to Berlin Tegel I have made it to my home for the next year!  This trip came after a much needed annual venture into the mountainous back country of Yosemite National Park with several family members. 

The Yosemite excursion consisted of a 5 day trek from Tuolomne Meadows along the Merced River ending in Yosemite Valley, a scenic 30 mile hike with an addition 15 miles including a day trip to Washburn Lake and a glorious sunrise climb up Half Dome. 

I have been backpacking in the Eastern Sierra Nevadas since I was 9 years old beginning with an almost identical trip of the same distance.  This year I was walking along the same trails as I had 13 years prior along with 11 family members and friends ranging from ages 10 to 65.  At first many obstacles needed be hurdled just to get out boots on the trailhead, then we faced a 10 mile climb atop heavy snow that obscured 90% of the trail... >

My dad and I quickly pulled ahead of the pack as we weren't weighed down by the 2 young hikers, Olivia 10 and Will 11.  We navigated a rough path relying heavily upon our GPS to show us where the trail led underneath the snow.  The hike was grueling, arguably the toughest I have yet to complete, not due to a significant rise in elevation but simply because we had to forge our own path with equipment ill-suited for the amount of snow. 

The next 4 days went much smoother as we descended into the trickling glacial valleys ,one flowing into the next, of the John Muir Trail.  The mosquitoes were few and far between and the fish were plentiful.  Other than a few blisters wrought from the first day the trip went beautifully. 

Half Dome-distance from edge to valley floor approx. 5000+ ft.

The climax of the trip hands down had to be our early morning climb up Half Dome.  Those of us willing to make the intense climb before the rising sun bathed the monolithic granite giant and the valley below awoke at 3 am.   The group consisted of myself, my cousin-in-law Geoff, his daughter Olivia, his brothers Nick and Jim, and my uncle Bill.  The hike to the base of Half Dome from Little Yosemite Valley is roughly 3 miles along relentless uphill switchbacks, nothing to take lightly. 

The real challenge is not met until one emerges above the tree line and is overshadowed by a near vertical granite slope with 3 foot tall steps that vanish half-way to the top.  But the fun doesn't stop there! One must then descend into the 'saddle', a small dip that then meets the granite dome.  Here lies the way up the shear rock, two steel cables and a deteriorating wood step approximately every  3 meters.  Mind you there are no harnesses or carabiners to secure you to these cables....if you fall, it will be the most scenic and fatal fall you experience before your soul transcends the clouds (or whatever you believe happens when your face meets granite at terminal velocity). 

Also remember that we have a 10 year old girl with us... and it is still dark...

View of the 'saddle' from the cables

Before we have time to process the epic task that lay before us along spindly cables we must hustle as the sun is fast approaching and we wish to experience sunrise on top of the dome.  I attack the cables at a near sprint.  I have done this several times before and knew that if I psyched myself up enough it would be relatively easy.  At this point fear is not my biggest concern but a lack of oxygen (one can not run too far or fast at such an elevation without risking a blackout resulting in a quick trip to the valley floor), as well as a lack of visibility as the dome was obscured by clouds and I had begun to pierce the ominous grey shroud.

I make my way up the cables sprinting, always keeping one hand on a cable while the other reaches farther up.  I am wearing fingerless gloves and my fingertips soon begin to bleed having been cut by the steel cables. 

I soon emerge from the clouds and enter what feels like an ethereal world.  granite mountaintops sit like islands on a sea of clouds.  What little breath I had remaining from my ascent is stolen from me by the beauty I am beholding. 

The sun soon rises and we are have scrambled up just in time to enjoy its splendor.  We glow with awe and snap dozens of pictures, then discuss how we are to descend from such heights....  I suggest going down backwards to those who fear heights and an awkward descent.  I opt for a sideways repelling motion in which I hold onto one cable and hop down the slope.

We all make it back safely and quickly pack our backpacks in order to race down into the valley where cold beer and warm showers awaits our triumphant crew.  The trip as a whole was unforgettable and a refreshing and calming adventure for my soul so eager for the coming change that Berlin and the coming year is to offer. 

I finally have a solid internet connection here after my host father did some much appreciated troubleshooting.  I assure you that more about Germany and my experience with the children is soon to come!  Bis Bald! (see you soon)